Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
